We got the train to Jodhpur from Bikaner, which is a 4 hour 45 minute journey, and we booked our tickets online via cleartrip. We booked sleeper class as it was a relatively short journey and we were on a tight budget so did not want to splash out on A/C.
We were pleasantly surprised by sleeper class as the train we got was not crowded at all and we found the bunks to be comfy enough to sleep (it is worth noting though if you are doing an overnight journey that you do not get any blankets or pillows in sleeper class, but you could easily improvise with a silk liner and a large jumper for a pillow).
I spent the first hour of the train journey looking out of the window, however, the scenery was flat and desert like so I migrated to my upper bunk after an hour in order to catch up on some sleep.
We stayed at Singhvi’s Haveli in Jodhpur which is a nice little guest house (and top pick according to Lonely Planet 14th ed) to the west of the fort. The guesthouse was quiet which ensured a good night’s sleep. There was also a restaurant which was reasonably priced with good food. The only bad thing about Singhvi’s Haveli is that it is 30 minutes’ walk to the clock tower which seems to be Jodhpurs main hub and close to access to the fort, however, there are plenty of rickshaws nearby that would take you to the clock tower for 50-60 rupees.
Accessing the fort by foot
On our first day in Jodhpur we took a walk up to the fort. You can access the fort by foot from the side of Hill View Guesthouse – if you exit from the north exit of the clock tower square and turn immediately left and then take the first right (opposite Spice Paradise), then continue straight you will find Hill View guesthouse – the track winds up the side of the guesthouse. It is quite a steep track but it is quite a short 10 minute walk.
Accessing the fort by rickshaw
You can also access the fort by rickshaw, however it is a windy steep road up to the fort so expect to pay around 80 rupees (the walk to the fort is far more direct).
The fort and the audio tour
Cost: 300 rupees each (including audio tour)
The fort is one of the most magnificent in the whole of India and it certainly is spectacular. The price you pay for the entry comes with an audio tour included (available in many languages), and I would definitely recommend that you take advantage of it. The fort is spectacular on its own, but the audio tour provided us with the history of the fort and its role today. The tour was spoken in clear and precise English and can be paused or sections skipped.
Spice Paradise Cooking Class
On our last night in Jodhpur we did a 4 hour cooking class (from 5pm – 9pm) with Spice Paradise. You can find the shop if you exit from the north exit of the square with the clock tower and turn immediately left, then carry on straight and you will come to Spice Paradise on your right.
Detail and cost
The class is held in the back room of the shop, where all the spices are displayed and sold during the day. The class is taken by Anil and all the spices used are mixed and packaged by her husband and can be bought after the cooking class. The class cost 890 rupees each, and each class contains no more than 4 people. If you can’t eat all the food (highly likely) then Anil will package it so you can have it for lunch the next day.
Anil is very friendly and she explains each step of each dish very clearly, in addition she also provides a little booklet containing all the ingredients and steps to make each dish, so there is no need to take notes.
We made a huge variety of dishes in the four hours, with our favourites being the chapatti’s and the biryani. We had a great deal of fun in the class and would definitely recommend the class to anyone visiting Jodhpur.
Warning: you should come to the class with an empty stomach as you will leave with your stomach more full than it has ever been!
The Omelette Shop
Location: We visited the omelette man’s shop in Jodhpur which is located just on the right as you exit from the north of the square with the clock tower.
Cost: Omelettes range from between 50 – 80 rupees (they seem to have doubled their prices since appearing in the Lonely Planet!
We ordered the masala omelettes and they came served as a sandwich – in between two pieces of bread, and you get two servings each. The food was tasty, although the setting was possibly a little off putting as it is right at the side of the road with tiny stools, and there was quite a few fly’s around the rubbish bin next to the seating area (although the food hygiene itself seemed to be ok).
Om Juice Corner
Location: Om Juice Corner is located in the top left of the square if you enter from the south entrance. You can’t miss it – it’s the juice bar with the seating in front of it.
Cost: Depending upon which flavour lassi you choose they range from 20 – 30 rupees.
The lassi’s were good and the pineapple one was our favourite. We concluded they were made hygienically as they did not make us ill (and we visited everyday throughout our 3 day trip to Jodhpur!) Lassi is a thick milkshake drink popular in India. The juice bar also sold normal juices and fizzy drinks, although we did not sample any of these.